The moment the words tumbled from my mouth I wished to take them back, collect them like scattered coins spilled from an emptied pocket.
It happened during a meeting at the bank, where I was opening a Costa Rican account and making my first deposit.
“I’m a millionaire here,” I stupidly joked.
Friends and colleagues have often remarked that I have no filter, suggesting on occasion that my inside voice needs work. It’s one of the negative qualities that requires constant attention.
But even a momentary lapse can have disastrous consequences. This was evidenced in the reaction of the banking official, who was quick to remind me my million-colones deposit, about a thousand bucks or so, is a fortune here.
Although Costa Ricans boast the highest quality of living in the region, the minimum monthly wage is a mere $175. By comparison, Nicaragua has the lowest minimum wage at $33 per month, according to the Central American Human Rights Commission.
“There are many poor people in Costa Rica,” the banking official stated, her voice even but the words direct.
“It’s because of, how do you say, foreigners, driving up prices.”
Ouch.
Instantly wracked with guilt, I tried to assuage her, agreeing that people like me were to blame for the growing disparity amongst the people here, which has resulted in debate about the root of Costa Rica’s social ills and the relatively new phenomenon of gated and guarded communities due to rising crime.
It is true that the cost of housing has shot through the roof throughout the country, particularly in coastal areas where mostly Americans and Canadians are snapping up a piece of paradise for still relatively reasonable prices, at least compared to recreational property in North America.
But neither foreign investors nor the expats who settle here are solely to blame for the growing gap between the rich and poor — the Ticos themselves have to own up to their own fair share.
In the expat enclave of Escazu, where the Multiplaza is located, the majority the area’s residents and patrons at the high-end stores are wealthy Costa Ricans who seemingly have no problem paying North American prices to outfit their kids and themselves in the latest fashions or buy the latest high-tech gadget. Although there are more expats there than here in our small town of San Rafael, where prices are much more reasonable, they are still a visible minority by far.
Globalization and rising oil prices are playing havoc on the local economy just as they are in countries around the world, including Canada. According to the Tico Times, the local English weekly, the Costa Rican economy, along with its currency has experienced a sharp decline in recent months. This is in contrast to years of robust economic growth.
Food prices are also on the rise, including staples like rice and beans, making it harder for many local people to put food on the table.
Yet there are fewer visibly poor here than in Calgary, where a surging economy has left many out in the cold — literally and figuratively. At least here there is an abundance of fruit and vegetables that can be grown year-round to ensure there’s always food on the table.
Unlike home, where you can hardly walk any downtown street without being assaulted by panhandlers and vagrants, it’s rare to see someone sleeping on the street in the central valley, where at least the temperatures never dip down below about 15 C.
Even San Jose is almost bare of panhandlers, although we did witness the heart-breaking sight of a mother and child begging on a busy corner.
Still, the episode at the bank was a good reminder that even though my lifestyle is restricted by my resources both at home and here, I am rich compared to most people in Costa Rica, and around the world, for that matter.
Humble pie is a meal best eaten with gratitude.
Beating the boom 